3rd Gen Prelude Bushing Replacement

So you want to replace all of your bushings on your 3rd Gen Lude, Huh? Well, Sir, I hope you packed a lunch! This is the most tedious and time consuming thing you can do to the Lude. It takes days to do. And if you are like me and cleaned and painted every part before you reinstalled it, it will take weeks or months. However, the finished product is one of the best handling front-wheel drive cars you will have ever driven.

You will need a bushing press. You can get one at Harbor Freight like I did. You can do it without one, as I did in this video. https://youtu.be/hVUpWCl9bL8 However, a bushing press will be a game changer. Even with the press, you will still have some that won’t want to come out. That cheap rubber has been in there for 30 years and has gone through a ton of heat cycles and different types of weather. They aren’t just going to fall out. You will also need a bunch of different sized sockets to press out the bushings. Some safety glasses. Possibly a cup. And a shit ton of patience. I wouldn’t try burning them out. In my experience, it takes forever, smells and I’m pretty sure it’s poisonous.

Ok, so here is a list and direct links of everything that I used. You can use other bushings, if you want. Don’t ask me if they will fit because I don’t know. I will tell you this, I researched these products for months, I have installed them and they fit and work. If you want to gamble with some other shit your buddy told you will fit, go ahead. It’s your car.

Before you ask, you will notice that the “88-91 Honda Prelude” is not listed in the description for any of these products. Yes, the part numbers are correct. I hope that gives you an idea how much research went into figuring what fits from the great people over at Preludepower.com.

UPPER CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS – Prothane PTP 8-213

https://amzn.to/2WoKIGU

Note: You need two sets of these for the front and rear UCA’s. You also need plastic spacers and metal washers. The metal washers go on the outside of the bushings and plastic spacers go inside. You will also need to grind down the UCA’s to make room for the metal washers. Watch this video. https://youtu.be/a7k2nnLEWfU

Here are the spacers you need – 95649a256

https://www.mcmaster.com/95649a256

Here are the metal washers you need:

https://www.mcmaster.com/91090A115

FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARM INNER BUSHINGS – Prothane 8-210

https://amzn.to/2XQy5Vw

FRONT AND REAR LOWER CONTROL ARM OUTER BUSHINGS – Prothane PTP 8-907

https://amzn.to/2Y0kVp7

Note: You need two sets of these for the front and rear lower control arms.

REAR LOWER CONTROL ARM INNER BUSHINGS – Super Pro SPF2133K

https://www.suspension.com/spf2133k

FRONT SWAY BAR END LINKS – Energy Suspension 16.8104R

https://amzn.to/33m8fvC

FRONT SWAY BAR MOUNTS – Energy Suspension 9.5110R

https://amzn.to/2XYAdKO

REAR HEAVY DUTY ENDLINKS – No link, but I got them from a guy on preludepower.com

REAR SWAY BAR ENDLINK EYELETS – Moog K90103

https://amzn.to/2LcYtaI

REAR SWAY BAR MOUNTS – Prothane 18-1116

https://amzn.to/2LhRnBK

If you have 2WS, you can run Megan Racing lower rear tie rods.

MEGAN RACING MRS-HA-1470 REAR TOE ARM

https://amzn.to/2Jb5arh

I’m running K-Sport coilovers. There lots of places you can find them, but definitely check out http://1funryd.com/products.html if you want a some.

That’s pretty much it. You should replace all of your ball joints and tie rods too. It’s a ton of work. Don’t think you’re going to get it done in a weekend. I remember I had a bolt that took me like 4 hours to just remove on one of the lower control arms. All this work is worth it though. And once it’s done, you’ll never have to do it again.

Please comment below if you have any questions and if you found this helpful. Thanks to JrzRider for requesting this info recently and getting me to finally do it.